Villavieja and the nearby Tatacoa desert see few international travelers, and it's still an under-the-radar destination in Colombia.

Arriving in Villavieja, you'll realize there's not much to do in town besides visiting a few small museums. That's not a problem, though. The main attraction of Villavieja is just outside of town.

Once upon a time, the landscape circling Villavieja was a lush forest. Today, the vast majority of that is extinct. What remains is the Tatacoa Desert, a dry tropical forest.

Calling Tatacoa a desert is misleading. It's a 330 square kilometer arid landscape owing its namesake to a now-extinct species of rattlesnake.

Exploring the Tatacoa desert is a relatively simple endeavor. 

Nine times out of ten, you'll depart for Villavieja from Bogotá. From Bogotá, catch a direct bus to Neiva. This leg will cost 70,000 COP. Buses depart from Bogotá to make the four-and-a-half-hour journey to Neiva hourly.

After arriving in Neiva, hail a collectivo making the 40-minute trip to Villavieja, costing 15,000 COP.

Disclaimer: This article may contain affiliate links, and we may earn a small commission should you use them, for which we are incredibly grateful. However, the recommendations are still our own and intended to advise on the very best experiences Villavieja & The Tatacoa Desert have to offer.

Explore the tatacoa Desert

Planning a trip to the Tatacoa Desert can be confusing. At first, you'd think that the Tatacoa is one single destination. But really, the Tatacoa Desert is split into two distinct sectors.

First off, there is Cuzco, the red section of the Tatacoa Desert. If you've ever wondered what it'd feel like to step out on the surface of Mars, this section of the Tatacoa Desert is a pretty good gauge.

Second, there is Los Hoyos. In stark contrast to Cuzco, the greys of Los Hoyos look distinctly lunar. As if you've stepped out from an Apollo mission.

There is also the Tatacoa Astronomic Observatory. The Astronomic Observatory is located in the Cuzco region but is an attraction in its own right. As Tatacoa is 40 kilometers away from the nearest major city, light pollution is practically non-existent, making it a hotspot for astronomers. Hence the placement of the astronomic observatory.

To get to the Tatacoa Desert from Villavieja, you'll need to hail one of the tuk-tuks in town and make the 15-minute journey to the desert, which should cost around 25,000 COP.

A word of warning, make your way to the desert early in the morning; it gets hot during the day.

Cuzco

We've already established that stepping out into Cuzco's Martian-esque landscape is breathtaking. The area owes its red colors to the rich iron in the ground.

The trailhead for the red desert is easy to locate and even easier to follow. The trail begins across the road from the astronomic observatory.

With the terrain mostly flat, hiking through the desert is far from challenging. Here, the heat and dust will prove your worst enemy. If you don't begin your hike into the red desert early in the morning, it's not uncommon to stagger through 40ºC heat come midday. As for the dust, we're all pretty well stocked on face masks now, so this shouldn't prove an issue. Then there is the dust stirred up by passing vehicles. Luckily, we're all well stocked on face masks now. A hat, sunscreen, and plenty of water are also essential, with little shade on the trail.

If you're wondering when the best time to hike through the red desert is, we recommend sunrise or sunset when the temperature is cool, and your surroundings are at their most spectacular. The opportunity for some awesome photos is limitless.

Following the trail, treat Cementerio de Los Fósiles as the furthest point of the red desert. There's not a lot to see beyond that point that you won't have already come across.

Along the trail, you'll pass through an area known as Labrintes. Labrintes is a vast network of striking rock formations carved by erosion to form a natural labyrinth – it's the most popular section of Cuzco, if not the whole Tatacoa Desert.

Within Labrintes, you may encounter Arbol de Los Deseos, the tree of wishes. Locals will tell you of a legend connected to this tree. They'll say that if you find a heart-shaped leaf folded in two, and if you can unfold the leaf without damaging it, you'll be granted any wish you desire.

Guided tours are available for traversing Cuzco. Many are available through your accommodation. However, a guide isn't necessary, as exploring the red desert solo is simple enough. You shouldn't have to pay more than 30,000 COP if set on a guided tour.

For the adventurous, wild camping within Cuzco is allowed. Light pollution is at the bare minimum here, and camping is an incredible opportunity to watch the night sky blossom into view. Be warned that the desert is home to snakes, spiders, and scorpions, which aren't always easy to spot, so take care.

Los Hoyos

Drastically different from Cuzco, stepping out into Los Hoyos is like stepping out on the moon. Los Hoyos is eight kilometers from the red desert. To reach this lunar-esque landscape, you'll need a catch a tuk-tuk from Cuzco, a 20-minute trip that will cost you 25,000 COP. Alternatively, you can hire a bike and cycle to Los Hoyos for 15,000 COP.

Once you reach Los Hoyos, there are a couple of landmarks to look out for.

First up, there is the Valle de Los Fantasmes, which translates to the Valley of Ghosts. This area is famous for its rock formations, which appear as specters rising from the ground.

Next, there's the Valley of Wishes, which is a 'tourist-y' spot. Here, travelers stop to make rock towers five rocks high. Legend has it that if you make a wish while building your tower, it will come true should your tower still stand after a year.

Finally, there are the Piscinas. You can find these artificial pools near the end of the Los Hoyos trail. If you fancy taking a dip in the piscina to conclude your exploration of Los Hoyos, prepare to cough up 8,000 COP, and don't forget to bring a swimsuit! While these pools are human-made, the water that fills them stems from the desert.

The Tatacoa as a whole is pretty off-the-beaten-path. Even then, Los Hoyos is much quieter than the neighboring red desert.

Don't be surprised if you have the whole trail to yourself as you explore this otherworldly landscape.

As with the Cuzco area of the desert, a guide isn't necessary, and the trail through Los Hoyos is straightforward to follow. If you want a tour guide to accompany you, consult your accommodation, and you should be able to secure one easily. You shouldn't need to pay more than 30,000 COP.

Tatacoa Astronomic Observatory

The Tatacoa Desert is an incredible place to take in the night sky, far from any light pollution. So, it's an ideal location for an astronomic observatory.

The observatory is open to visitors, with entrance costing a mere 10,000 COP. You get a two-hour talk and tour of the facility for your pesos. Not to mention the chance to see the night sky above Tatacoa through the lens of the facility's telescope.

You'll discover the planets of our solar system and learn how to orientate yourself using the night sky.

If a visit to the observatory is something that appeals to you, try to align your visit with the new moon. At this point, light pollution is at its lowest, and you'll get the best possible night sky view.

If your trip to the desert falls between the 17th and 20th of July, you'll be in for a treat. Every year, experts in astronomy, students, and night sky enthusiasts descend on the observatory for La Fiesta de las Estrellas de la Tatacoa, also known as the star party. This festival celebrates astronomy with special lectures and talks from leaders in the field.

Museo Casa del Totumo

Museo Casa del Totumo is located close to the centre of Villavieja.

The museum stands to document and preserve the history and traditions of the town, with artifacts ranging from religious objects, dining objects, instruments, wildlife of the region, and sculptures of culture.

The museum opened its doors in 2014, following five years of collecting artifacts that visitors can now see for just 2,000 COP.

The museum opens at 7:30 AM and closes at 5:30 PM.

Villavieja Paleontological Museum

The Villavieja Paleontological museum, based in the main square, is the most noteworthy attraction in town.

The museum is split into three rooms; one for reptiles, one for mammals, and one for the environment. Inside, you'll also find the remains of a Megaterio – an ancient sloth spanning five meters. All the artifacts on display were found in Villavieja, Tatacoa, and the surrounding area. Remnants of the thriving forest once found here.

The museum is open from 7:30 AM to 5:30 PM, with admission costing 2,000 COP.

Bethel Bio Luxury Hotel

A luxury eco-hotel in the middle of a desert is not what you expected from Colombia. And yet, here is the Bethel Bio Luxury Hotel.

The hotel pitches itself as a rustic eco-glamping kinda deal. You'll be off-grid. Don't expect WiFi or even a reliable power source here.

Despite that, this is a luxury hotel in every sense.

On-site facilities include two pools, a bar-come-restaurant, and a spa. Rooms also feature a private balcony.

If set on a luxury retreat in the heart of Tatacoa, try to coordinate your visit between Monday and Thursday, when Bethel offers a 30% discount on rooms.

The cheapest accommodation option here – an outdoor poolside glamping bed – is priced at 210,000 COP per night. The outdoor experience never loses the luxury feel of the hotel. It also allows you to sleep out beneath a blanket of stars. The hotel offers complimentary breakfast, and you'll have access to bathrooms and social showers. There's even a live DJ playing between 2 PM and 7 PM on the weekends.

For the sun worshipers amongst you, this experience will be perfect. However, be aware that there is no escaping the music once it gets going.

After this 'budget' option, accommodation prices range between 525,000 and 2,450,000 COP per night with a 30% discount. Eyewatering.

At the end of the day, whether coughing up to stay at the Bethel Bio Luxury Hotel is worth it depends on what you want from your stint in the Tatacoa Desert. If you're looking to kick back, relax and unwind beneath the glare of the scorching sun, it's perfect. It becomes tough to justify the price tag if you're hoping to get out and explore.

Tubo Hotel tatacoa

Based five minutes from Villavieja on foot, the colorful glamping pods of Tubo Hotel make for a unique proposition.

The 23-room 'hotel' is an excellent base for wandering around town and venturing further afield into the desert.

Each funky-colored pod features a double bed and can accommodate two to three people. The hotel also has an on-site pool, free WiFi, a designated smoking area, a terrace, and a lounge area.

There are no dorm rooms here.

Privates start at 125,000 COP and come equipped with air-con, blackout curtains, and a private terrace area. However, you will share a bathroom. Shared bathrooms are gender-specific.

For an additional 40,000 COP, you can add the luxury of a private bathroom to your stay.

Whichever you opt for, you'll enjoy a complimentary breakfast at the start of each day.

Hostel Noches de Saturno

Hostel Noches de Saturno falls into the 'budget' category. It's the polar opposite of the Bethel Bio Luxury hotel. However, if you've come to spend your days exploring the desert, a bed for the night is all you need.

Based across the road from the astronomic observatory and with the trailhead for the red desert a stone's throw away, the hostel makes a superb base to wander through the Tatacoa Desert.

Accommodation is rustic and basic. But, it does have an ace up its sleeve, a pool in the backyard – a life-saver in the desert heat.

Private rooms are available for 30,000 COP, which is outstanding, even in Colombia. But be wary. The rooms are sweltering hot. With that in mind, you may opt for the accommodations alternative; a night in a hammock.

A night in a hammock is like a right of passage in the life of a backpacker. Here, you can fulfill that right of passage for just 10,000 COP. The hammocks are surprisingly cozy, have a mosquito net, and are a much cooler option than sleeping indoors.

Hostel Noches de Saturno also has an on-site restaurant, with breakfast, lunch, and dinner available for as little as 15,000 COP. Dietary requirements are also happily catered to.

Sol del Desierto

Sol del Desierto is a popular restaurant located near the center of Villavieja, just 500 meters from the main square.

Cheap and cheerful is the name of the game at Sol del Desierto, boasting a varied menu at incredibly reasonable prices.

Breakfast is available from 6,000 to 11,000 COP, with dishes including chicken, egg, avocado, and arepas.

Starters, which include Colombian staples like empanadas, are priced at 4,000-8,000 COP.

Mains offer a mix of Colombian and American-style cuisine. Chicken, fish, and pasta dishes are available from 14,000 to 60,000 COP.

The restaurant also offers a superb menu del dia, enough to leave you feeling full for the day ahead and costing just 12,000 COP.

Sal Si Puedes Restaurante

Reviewed as one of the best restaurants in town, you can find Sal si Puedas Restaurante near the center of Villavieja.

Here, you'll find a surprisingly wide-ranging menu.

Starters cost between 8,000 and 11,000 COP.

As for mains, meat and fish dishes are priced between 16,000 and 19,000 COP, while rice-based dishes cost around 16,000 COP.

Those on a plant-based diet will be delighted to discover a dedicated vegan menu, one of the only ones in town. Plant-based meals here cost between 14,000 and 15,000 COP.

The Tatacoa desert is, well, a desert. It's pretty toasty. Not only that, but it's pretty toasty year-round. Expect temperatures to range somewhere between 30ºC and 45ºC throughout the year.

Precipitation in the area is minimal. Even in the wet season, rainfall is rare. If you are looking to maximize your time in the sun, though, you should try to plan your trip between June and September.

There aren't any peaks in tourism, with Villavieja remaining somewhat under the radar for now. The busiest it gets is during the annual Star Party festival taking place in July of each year.

Overall, the best time to plan your trip to Tatacoa will depend on how big a draw the Star Party is. If that sort of thing appeals, go out of your way to plan your trip around it. It'll be a memorable experience. If the Star Party doesn't appeal to you, literally any other time of year is great.

Our Map Of Villavieja and the Tatacoa Desert, Colombia