Parque Tayrona, Colombia:
The Ultimate Backpackers Travel Guide
People keep making the same mistakes when visiting Parque Tayrona. Information on Colombia's most famous destination is weirdly scarce. Namely how to get there, what to do once there, and details about accommodation.
Many book a day tour to remove the stress of traveling to Tayrona independently, but this is the greatest mistake you can make with Tayrona. Day trips aren't good value for money, and backpackers are often bewildered by the excessive cost.
Day tours leave you shorthanded by the amount of time you get at the park and restrict what you can do.
Backpackers also underestimate just how popular Parque Tayrona is. Loved in equal measure by Colombians and travelers, the park becomes packed on weekends and public holidays. Overcrowding is a serious issue during the peak months of December and January when the charm of the national park can get lost in the noise. Try to plan your trip for a weekday while avoiding public holidays.
You'll likely encounter mixed messages about whether the park is open at certain times of the year. Nobody wants to make their way to Tayrona's entrance – eager to wonder its pristine shores – only to discover it's closed. Over the last few years, at the request of indigenous tribes who call Tayrona home, the park has been closed in late January and throughout February.
These measures allow the environment to recover from the influx of tourism during the peak months. In 2020 though, planned park closures changed. Instead of remaining shut to the public immediately after the peak tourism months, Tayrona closes on January 1st-15th, June 1st-15th, and October 19th - November 2nd. Whether this new timetable continues in the future remains to be seen. Either way, check the official Parque Tayrona website when planning your trip.
Disclaimer: This article may contain affiliate links, and we may earn a small commission should you use them, for which we are incredibly grateful. However, the recommendations are still our own and intended to advise on the best possible adventure to Tayrona National Park.
Santa Marta has historically been the departure point for backpackers heading to Tayrona's shores. However, there is another way.
We recommend departing for Parque Tayrona from Palomino, from which the journey is much quicker and cheaper.
Hail the bus heading to Santa Marta from Palomino, which stops at the park entrance 40 minutes into the journey. The bus will cost just 7,000 COP.
Before departing for the park entrance, we have some advice for you.
Don't take the 'big' backpack – a daypack will suffice even if you make an overnight stop at the park.
Proud drone owner? Hoping to get some stunning shots of the shoreline? Not possible. Drones in Tayrona are strictly prohibited. Your GoPro will have to do.
Parque Tayrona is a cash-only kind of place. There are no ATMs in the park. Make sure your wallet is full before heading out.
When arriving at the entrance to Tayrona, the early bird gets the worm. The park opens at 8 AM, with a sizeable queue forming swiftly afterward. Arrive early to avoid the queues and maximize your time in the park.
To get into the park, you'll need a copy of your passport and your wallet to hand. The entrance fee is a little steep but most definitely worth it. In the low season, admittance will set you back by 53,500 COP, jumping to 63,500 COP during the high season. On top of this, there is a non-negotiable insurance and rescue fee of 2,500 COP to pay.
You can buy your entrance ticket on the day. However, if you book online, you'll be able to skip the queues and head straight in. You can buy tickets on the Parque Tayrona website. We recommend booking beforehand if visiting Tayrona during the high season; otherwise, you risk being turned away with the park at capacity. If you book your ticket online, you'll need to print off confirmation at your hostel and bring it to get in.
With your entrance fee paid for, you can enter the park—sort of. The actual entrance to the park is a 45-minute walk away. Alternatively, you can catch the 3,000 COP shuttle service that drops you off at the start of Tayrona's main trail. From there, you can make your way to Tayrona's main attraction; its beaches.
Life’s a beach
Tayrona's beaches are the reason people flock to the national park. They're the best in mainland Colombia and amongst the best on the continent. Read on to discover Tayrona's beaches and where you'll find them.
Castilletes and Canaveral
Castilettes and Canaveral are the first beaches you'll cross when venturing into the national park. However, they aren't accessible on the main trail. You'll have to head slightly off-piste to reach them.
Both beaches are highly-rated and have on-site accommodation should you stay the night.
However, you have to be careful. Due to strong currents, it's not safe to swim in the seas of these beaches. These warnings are a recurring theme for much of Tayrona's coastline.
Arrecifes
Arrecifes is the largest and one of the most popular beaches in the national park. It is the first beachfront you'll come across if you stick to Tayrona's main trail. The place often gets packed by people visiting on a day trip.
Like Castilletes and Canaveral, accommodation is available at Arrecifes, though the sea is unsafe to swim in.
La Piscina
La Piscina is the next beach along Tayrona's main trail. It's smaller and quieter than many beaches found in the national park. Due to a degree of protection from the surrounding environment, it's also one of the few beaches in Tayrona where the waters are safe to swim in.
The lack of crowds and the prospect of a dip in the sea makes La Piscina a great option to stop and relax on soft white sands for the first time since entering Parque Tayrona.
Cabo San Juan
Cabo San Juan features calm waters perfect for swimming and accommodation. Both make it Tayrona's most popular piece of shoreline amongst backpackers.
It's a stunning beach and serves as an ideal base to explore the rest of the national park. However, with a lot going for it, it can get a little busy.
Punta Piedra and Playa Nudista
A short 15-minute walk from Cabo San Juan will lead you to two of Tayrona's smaller, lesser-known beaches; Punta Piedra and Playa Nudista.
These are secluded beaches where the sea is safe to swim in, making them a perfect escape from the busier shores of Cabo San Juan.
For those with a basic grasp of Spanish, Playa Nudista is indeed a nudist beach. While you're welcome to bear it all here, there's no pressure to do so; very few do.
Playa Brava
2.5-kilometers beyond Cabo San Juan is Playa Brava. Getting there can be a bit of a pain, with the main trail disappearing around the halfway point.
For those up for the journey, the walk is worth it. Playa Brava is blissfully quiet, and there is on-site accommodation and a nearby waterfall to explore.
Unfortunately, the sea isn't safe for swimming here, though Playa Brava is still an attractive option for those looking to venture further afield in Tayrona.
Beyond Playa Brava
Several other beaches are found deeper in the national park. The best of the bunch are Playa Cristal, Neguanje, and Playa 7 Olas. However, you need to really want to get to them.
That's not to say the beaches aren't worth it. Playa Cristal is excellent for snorkeling, with calm waters to boot. Neguanje and Playa 7 boast great backdrops. All three beaches are quiet and secluded. However, sitting 9.5, 13, and 14.5 kilometers away from Cabo San Juan, reaching them may prove a tall order.
A note on sea conditions
Many will be disappointed to discover that some of Tayrona's beaches are not safe to swim in. Undoubtedly, the allure of the cold refreshing ocean can be tempting in extreme heat. However, you must follow safety guidelines.
Over 100 people have lost their lives after drowning in Parque Tayrona. Take the warnings seriously. Don't become another sad statistic. Your safety should be paramount.
Hiking in Tayrona
If by some miracle, you get restless lounging around and exploring beach after beach, Tayrona does offer a handful of hikes to appease you.
One such hike takes you to the remains of a 500-year-old indigenous village named Pueblito. Reaching Pueblito can be challenging. From Cabo San Juan, you'll need to walk for 3-4 hours – depending on your pace.
A more popular and less strenuous hike is the 9 Piedras loop. This 1.4-kilometer trail leads you to nine viewpoints within the park. Massive stones in the ground mark each viewpoint. You'll find a slither of information on the area and its indigenous culture at each view. While the hike is pretty easy, bring a substantial amount of water and plenty of sun cream.
Accommodations in Tayrona fill up quickly. Ideally, you should book a bed for the night while securing entry to the park, particularly as wild camping is prohibited.
You'll find accommodation in Castilletes and Canaveral, Arrecifes, Cabo San Juan, and Playa Brava. Each accommodation site boasts a restaurant, toilets, showers, and a small shop for buying essentials.
Backpackers will have the luxury of choosing between a hammock or a tent. For the flashpackers amongst you, there is the tempting, if expensive, option of renting one of Tayrona's iconic ecohabs.
As for food, those hoping for some superb seafood will be disappointed. Meals are basic and undeniably pricey for what you get. With prices at a premium, we recommend stocking up on snacks to see you through to dinner before arriving in Tayrona.
If you are short on essentials, the accommodations shops will likely have you covered. They sell everything from bog-roll and sunscreen to insect repellent and cigarettes.
Castilletes and Canaveral
accommodation consists of Tayrona's famous Ecohabs. The price of these luxury accommodations starts at 1,200,000 COP with room to sleep four. Here you can expect meals to cost up to 40,000 COP. Drinks cost between 4,000 and 6,000 COP.
Arrecifes
Accommodation at Arrecifes is more wallet-friendly. Here, an outdoor hammock for the night will cost 15,000 COP – don't forget a mosquito net. Alternatively, Arrecifes offers 'private rooms.' These private rooms are a tiny shed priced at an eye-watering 780,000 COP per night. Expect meals to cost around 30,000 COP. Meanwhile, beers cost 6,000 COP, soft drinks 4,000 COP, and a large bottle of water costs 6,000 COP.
Cabo San Juan
The most popular beach for backpackers naturally means that Cabo San Juan's accommodation is more backpacker-friendly.
Here, you can rent a tent for 40,000 COP – though if you bring your own, it'll cost half that to pitch up. Alternatively, you can sleep in an outdoor hammock for 40,000 COP. For an extra 10,000 COP, you can secure a hammock in the accommodations watchtower – though these sell out quickly.
At Cabo San Juan, meals cost between 15,000 and 40,000 COP. As for drinks, a beer will cost 6,000 COP, soft drinks are 4,000 COP, and a 1.5-liter bottle of water is 6,000 COP.
Playa Brava
Playa Brava is the final site offering accommodation in Parque Tayrona. At Playa Brava, there are two accommodation options available to you. The first is a hammock with a mosquito net priced at 30,000 COP. The second option is a shed-come-cabin with room to sleep two, priced at 180,000 COP.
At 20,000 COP, breakfast at Playa Brava is pricier than elsewhere in the park, while lunch or dinner will cost around 30,000 COP.
The climate in Tayrona doesn't vary much throughout the year. The average temperature fluctuates between 22ºC and 25 ºC.
Deciding when to make your excursion is an exercise of finding a balance between little precipitation and smaller crowds.
If you're looking to head to Tayrona under clear sunny skies, then December through to April are the months with very little rainfall. However, mid-December to mid-January is the high season, and the park is closed for some of that time.
So, if you're looking to balance great weather and smaller crowds, we recommend heading to Tayrona in March. Aim for a weekday visit to ensure the park is quieter and boost your chances of securing your ideal accommodation.
Where Next?
Palomino
The Caribbean Coast
San Gil & Barichara
Santander
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